Darwin, and ANZAC Day

The Northern Territory is a destination which enthrals me every time I visit. The sheer vastness, the  luminous quality of the light, the rich red colour of the dirt, the heat, the diverse characters I have met who call NT home, all these factors combine to make it a magical, extraordinary place to visit. 

You feel there’s  a toughness, a rawness about it too, it really is for the most part a spectacular,untamed wilderness, seemingly ruled over by that most frightening of beasts, the crocodile. Everywhere you go in NT, you are made croc aware, with signage alerting you to take the utmost care near waterholes, springs, or in scrub areas. 

For the most part, humans and crocodiles do manage to cohabit here quite successfully. In fact, crocodiles are providing a great source of income for the Territory, not just by being a very tasty and increasingly popular protein, but by way of being the lead act in various Leaping Croc boat tours, much loved by tourists. There is nothing quite like a 5m croc launching itself straight up out of the water towards a lump of meat at the end of a very long pole. Getting that special photo or video is mandatory, in this age of social media .

But it’s  not just the crocodiles, or for that matter the kites, eagles, buffalo or Barra that impress.

It’s the tropical, warm air. 

It’s the laidback, relaxed vibe. 

It’s the lush, vibrantly coloured foliage set amongst the rusts, browns and reds of the earth. 

It’s the multicultural nature of the place, its diverse ethnic groups producing amongst other things a mouthwatering array of both traditional and Asian inspired foods. 

Darwin was our short stay destination this time. With only 5 nights to stay and play, Hubby and I chose the Darwin Waterfront Precinct, within walking distance of the city centre,and Anzac Day Ceremony and March we were here to attend. Scenic lifts and a skybridge connect the harbour and the CBD, making accessibility easy.

This superbly designed  harbour front area , first planned in 2003, and then built between 2006 and 2009, is an absolute credit to the NT Government and its private partnerships. 

On an eyesore site formerly containing a rundown wharf and multitudes of derelict and dysfunctional warehouses, a multifunctional, fabulous harbour front precinct has arisen. Costing $1.1billion, and coming in on time and budget, there are two hotels, retail stores, residential apartments, a man made lagoon with free use of deck chairs all day, a Wave pool, an Aqua-park complete with all shapes and sizes of inflated rubber jumping pillows to delight those of us inclined to attempt slipping, tumbling into the water, or flying through the air. All set in gorgeous tree lined and manicured parklands, with surrounding restaurants, cafes and the world class Darwin convention centre. There is something for everyone here, the concept works, and has been brilliantly successful.

Early morning each day was spent at the free saltwater manmade lagoon and beach area, protected from stingers and crocodiles by an immense Seawall. Much to hubbie’s delight, the water was the temperature of a tepid bath.

What we weren’t protected from though, were the nesting Plovers, but how intriguing they were! Feisty and ready to do battle with other birds, and unwary humans alike, you definitely knew if you got too close.

I unknowingly claimed a bench seat in the much needed shade. Just in front of this bench though, but on the walkway was a witches hat. That’s all. No sign , nothing else to alert the public to a pair of plovers who had chosen the busy sand beach to lay their two eggs. 

I soon found out when I walked too close, but it was only noisy squawking . Thereafter I skirted the area , whilst retaining the shady bench. And observing these amazing birds protecting their eggs, taking turns every hour, one nesting, one standing guard, was heartwarming. They were there night and day, for the length of our holiday. I would love to have seen their little chicks, but alas, not to be.

As the name suggests, the Wave pool , a paid attraction, creates artificial waves in a controlled and patrolled environment. It was too fake for hubby, but I braved the wild surf, clinging unattractively to my blue rubber ring, just like all the other kids. My arms are still aching from the effort of hanging on in the turbulence. Think swimming in the wash cycle of your washing machine.

I didn’t trust myself on the Aqua park, it was definitely too rugged for my liking, but people, especially teenagers, certainly provided many laughs. It’s just awful to admit to, but there’s something deliciously funny about watching people jumping onto already manned surfaces, sending their peers rocketing off in an ungainly manner into the water. Life jackets are of course mandatory, as is being able to swim. A fear of heights is not recommended though, some of the jumping platforms were nosebleedingly high.

Right next to the Precinct is the Stokes Hill Wharf, accessed on foot by crossing the Seawall and strolling the boardwalk. This is still a working wharf, for recreational fishing, and for general shipping. Watching the feisty little tugs guiding their much larger clients, including visiting cruise ships, is a delight. And so is the feast of food and drink awaiting you at the various wharf eateries, an international menu of everything from fish tacos to spicy Mexican, to fine dining. The sunset views across the Harbour add to the pleasure.

ANZAC Day in Darwin was marked by a Dawn Service, and then a March along the CBD’s main thoroughfare, commencing at 9am. 

Darwin is a gateway to Asia, and a significant military town, with a history of being bombed in WW2. Throughout Darwin are many reminders: the oil tunnels, various museums, bunkers, tours and plaques honouring those who lost their lives in the service of their country. And so I expected the commemoration to be large. 

I was not disappointed .

What was utterly impressive was the large numbers of people, of every age, of every ethnicity, gathering respectfully along both sides of the road to get their vantage points. Little children being set an example of pride in their country by their parents; indigenous and non indigenous standing together. And all around , the Aussie flag being held proudly in hand. Before the march even began, you could feel a palpable excitement in the very large crowd. We were all here to honour the ultimate sacrifice made for us all those years ago, to thank our heroes.

A lump in my throat got even bigger when the parade was led by the Lone Charger, the riderless horse with boots in the stirrups, facing backward. Steeped in tradition starting with our Light Horsemen in WW1, this  signified without words the loss of so many of our soldiers in war.

The cheering and clapping , and flag waving as each and every battalion and group marched past was so warranted, and so appreciated by all those servicemen and women taking part. You could see it in their eyes, and in the smiles that occasionally overrode their stern marching demeanour.

A very long parade, and a very emotional morning came to an end, and while many dispersed, many also stayed in the CBD, or went down to the harbour to find a coffee, a meal, or a watering hole to quench a thirst and chat about old times. Never one to hold back , I spoke to quite a few veterans, just simply to say thank you for their service, and to a man, or woman, they smiled and showed their pride in what they were marching for. 

Here, in this outstanding city of Darwin, commemorating ANZAC Day was for me, especially moving. 

Lest we forget.

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